Wine and Global Warming: An Open Letter to the President
Dear Mr. President,
With all due respect, I feel that I must warn you that you are on the brink of losing one of your biggest support groups – wine drinkers. Allow me to explain.
Wine has always been one of my guilty pleasures -- and I'm not alone. Wine consumption in the United States has been, and continues to be, on an extraordinary growth path. That means an ever-increasing base of fairly myopic (and, at certain times of the day, malleable) voters. For example, in 2008, a close friend of mine told me that he was a single issue voter: You promised to do something about global warming, so you got his vote. This is because climate change is having a huge impact on grape growing and, therefore, wine making.
My point is that all of this economic stimulus and health care talk is fine and good, but I don’t want you to take your eye off of the really important issue -- wine, . . . uh, I mean climate change. So here are a few facts to consider:
When it comes to identifying global warming, grape production is the canary in the coal mine. Very small temperature increases result in immediate, and large, changes in the ability to grow great grapes. For example:
- In Australia:
-- Up to 1000 growers will be faced with the decision of ceasing operations due to increasingly hot harvests;
-- By 2050, 44% of current grape-grown areas are likely to be negatively affected by rising temperatures.
- In France:
-- In 20 to 30 years, Burgundy, France, will be too warm to plant its classic-prized varietal, pinot noir (now I realize that it’s just pinot, but still);
-- Winemakers warn that failure to cut greenhouse gases will devastate their area;
-- A group of 50 winemakers predicted that vineyards will move 600 miles past their traditional boundaries by the end of the century if nothing is done now.
- England is now able to produce prize-winning vintages thanks to the warming conditions (Mr. President, ENGLAND! Sure they’re our friends but they really can’t be trusted with cars or grapes).
- In California, the Napa Valley will become as warm as Modesto. Modesto will become as warm as Stockton. Stockton will become as warm as Bakersfield (can cats and dogs raining down from the heavens be far behind?).
I know what you’re saying. Your saying that this just means that grape growing in Oregon and Washington will improve, but are there really enough votes to care what happens there?
Let me put it another way. Isn’t it at least possible that Sarah Palin has dropped out of the political scene because she sees what’s coming and is buying up prime Alaskan grape growing land? Do you really want to see Palin Insignia? Do you really want to be responsible for Sarah Palin becoming the replacement for the late, great Robert Mondavi as the American winemaking icon? I didn’t think so.
For my sake, your sake and Alaska’s sake, you must redouble your efforts to address climate change.
To be sure that my message is getting through, let me approach the issue from a more scientific angle. I’ve just completed some research on global warming. Between 1970 and 2008, the five-year mean temperature has drastically increased. In fact, the increase during this period is greater than the same increase for more than the previous 100 years.
Now, let’s take a look at what that has done to wine. Robert Parker (he is to wine what you are to Democratic politics) rates the quality of wine each year for all of the world’s wine producing areas. A year that scores 90 or higher is considered “Outstanding.” Looking at 90-point years for France (Pomerol), Italy (Piedmont - Barolo), California Cabernets, Oregon (Willamette Valley) and Washington Cabernets as reported by The Wine Advocate, we find:
|
1970-1978 |
1979-1988 |
1989-1998 |
1999-2008 |
|
|
Pomerol |
2 |
2 |
4 |
5 |
|
Piedmont |
3 |
5 |
6 |
9 |
|
California |
3 |
3 |
8 |
7 |
|
Oregon |
X |
1 |
2 |
4 |
|
Washington |
X |
2 |
3 |
7 |
Uh . . .wait a minute. Let me think about this. During the period of extreme warming, the number of great wine vintages have actually increased, thanks to climate change. That means that, at least in the short term, warmer is better for grapes. Sure, this can only go on for another 15 or 20 years, but at this rate that means another 12 to 15 spectacular wine vintages. I’ll have plenty of wine to last me through my waning years. True, I probably won’t be able to drink them outdoors, but that’s a sacrifice a truly dedicated oenophile is willing to make. Hmmm . . .well . . . .in that case.
Mr. President, kindly disregard this letter.
Whining No More,
Chuck Becker